House Painting: A Brief History



We take house painting for granted as a way to decorate our homes and protect surfaces against drying, rot, and the elements. Yet this seemingly simple product has a long, fascinating history – much too long and fascinating to summarize in just one essay. A brief history, however, is better than no history at all. In that spirit, we present a few snapshots of house paint’s evolution in order to heighten your appreciation of it, and to provide some perspective on humans’ need to secure and beautify their dwelling places.

Forty millennium ago, cave inhabitants combined various substances with animal fat to make paint, which they used to add pictures and colors to the walls of their crude homes. This of course is The Cave of Lascaux. Red and yellow ochre, hematite, manganese oxide, and charcoal were all employed as color elements. Starting around 3150 B.C., ancient Egyptian painters mixed a base of oil or fat with color elements like ground glass or semiprecious stones, lead, earth, or animal blood. White, black, blue, red, yellow, and green were their hues of choice. At the turn of the 14th century, house painters in England created guilds, which established standards for the profession and kept trade secrets under lock and key. By the 17th century, new practices and technologies were shaking up the world of house paint even more. In this era of reality TV and manufactured celebrities, it can be hard to remember the definition of modesty. For the Pilgrims, who populated the American colonies in the 17th century, modesty meant avoiding all displays of joy, wealth, or vanity. Painting one’s house was considered highly immodest, and even sacrilegious. In 1630, a Charlestown preacher ran afoul of the growing society’s mores by decorating his home’s interior with paint; he was brought up on criminal charges of sacrilege. Even colonial Puritanism, however, failed to silence the demand for house paint. Anonymous authors wrote “cookbooks” that offered recipes for various kinds and colors of paint. One popular process, known as the Dutch method, combined lime and ground oyster shells to make a white wash, to which iron or copper oxide – for red or green color, respectively – could be added. Colonial paint “cooks” also used items from the pantry, including milk, egg whites, coffee, and rice, to turn out their illegal product.

From the 17th century until the 19th, oil and water were the primary bases for paint production. Each held certain colors better than others, and there were differences in cost and durability between them, too. Ceilings and plaster walls generally called for water paints, while joinery demanded oils. Some homeowners wanted walls that looked like wood, marble, or bronze and ceilings that resembled a blue sky with puffy white clouds. Painters of the time routinely fulfilled such requests, which seem fairly eccentric by today’s standards. In 1638, a historic home known as Ham House, located in Surrey, England, was renovated. The multi-step process involved the application of primer, an undercoat or two, and a finishing coat of paint to elaborate paneling and cornices throughout the house. At this point in paint’s evolution, pigment and oil were mixed by hand to make a stiff paste – a practice still employed today. Well-ground pigment tends to disperse almost completely in oil. Before the 18th century, hand-grinding often exposed painters to an excess of white-lead powder, which could bring about lead poisoning. Despite its toxicity, lead paint was popular at the time due to its durability, which remains difficult to equal. Fortunately, painters eventually added air extraction systems to their workshops, thus reducing the health risks of grinding lead-based pigment. Not until 1978 did the U.S. finally ban the sale of lead house paint. Paint production transformed dramatically during the 1700s.

The first American paint mill opened in 1700 in Boston, Mass. In 1718, the Englishman Marshall Smith devised a “Machine or Engine for the Grinding of Colours,” which prompted a sort of arms race with regard to grinding pigment efficiently. In 1741, the English company Emerton and Manby publicized the “Horse-Mills” it used to grind pigment, which allowed it to sell paint at prices its rivals couldn’t match. Owner Elizabeth Emerton bragged: “One Pound of Colour ground in a Horse-Mill will paint twelve Yards of Work, whereas Colour ground any other Way, will not do half that Quantity.” As any steampunk aficionado will tell you, the turn of the 19th century meant the rise of steam power. Paint mills were no exception; at this point in time, most of them ran on steam. Another, more significant improvement also occurred around this time: Nontoxic zinc oxide became a viable base for white pigment, thanks to European ingenuity. (It came to the U.S. in 1855.) By the end of the 1800s, roller mills had started to grind pigment as well as grain, and the guild system that had organized English house painters for centuries became a network of trade unions. Mass production of paint was no longer a pipe dream, and linseed oil, a cheap binding agent that also helped protect wood, made it even easier. It was in the 19th century that decorating a home with paint became the norm rather than an outlier.

After all, paint made surfaces washable and, by sealing in wood’s natural oils, kept walls from becoming either too moist or too dry. In 1866, a future titan of the paint business, Sherwin-Williams Paint, was born. The company was the first maker of ready-to-use paint; its original product, raw umber in oil, debuted in 1873. Soon after that, cofounder Henry Sherwin developed a resealable tin can. Another current industry heavyweight, Benjamin Moore, began operations in 1883. Twenty-four years later, it added a research department powered by a single, lonely chemist. Since then, Benjamin Moore Paint has contributed a great deal to paint technology, but the company’s color-matching system, unveiled in 1982 and entirely computer-based, is still considered by many to be its most noteworthy achievement. (In the 21st century, paint remains a formidable moneymaker; roughly $20.9 billion of the stuff was sold in 2006 alone.) Though house paint is most frequently applied to the surfaces of a home, many artists have used it to bring their canvases to life. American painter John Frost, who began his career as an artist in 1919, used house paint to chronicle the history of his hometown, the tiny village of Marblehead, Mass. Picasso and many of his contemporaries used it as well. Even some modern artists, like Pollack admirer Nik Ehm, experiment with house paint as a medium. In the middle of the 20th century, necessity became the mother of invention for the increasingly innovative paint industry. World War II led to a dearth of linseed oil, so chemists combined alcohols and acids to make alkyds, artificial resins that could substitute for natural oil.

Today, most house painting paints is acrylic, or water-based, although milk paint, popular in the 19th century for its subtle hues, has become the darling of the sustainability movement thanks to its minimal environmental impact. To be specific, milk paint doesn’t contain volatile organic compounds, commonly known as VOCs. Conventional latex paint, on the other hand, does contain them, which makes it potentially hazardous to humans and pets. Extended exposure to VOCs can lead to organ or nerve damage, and some may be carcinogenic. Luckily, many paint companies produce low- or even zero-VOC paints. The term “zero-VOC,” by EPA standards, means that each liter of paint contains fewer than 5 grams of volatile compounds. Other non-VOC options include clay- and water-based paints. If you have allergies and/or chemical sensitivity, Low VOC Paint are a must. In fact, they offer practical advantages no matter what your circumstances, since their lack of strong odor lets you occupy freshly painted rooms relatively soon. Despite its outward simplicity, paint has adjusted over the millennium to conform to our aesthetic, financial, and health needs. That something so basic can allow us to express ourselves so strikingly, and elevate our mood so effectively, is almost a miracle. The next time you open a can of paint, consider how far through time it’s traveled to add a little beauty to your life.

Tips on Oil Painting – Advanced Palette



In this article I will discuss the tube colors belonging to an advanced palette based on a basic 6-color palette. I find these colors the most useful and often necessary to round out a versatile palette.

The 6-color basic palette consists of the following colors:

1. Lemon Yellow
2. Cadmium Yellow
3. Cadmium Red
4. Permanent Rose
5. French Ultramarine
6. Phthalo Blue

To these 6 colors we, of course, add

7. Titanium White
8. Ivory Black

Note that you can already create amazingly diversified paintings with the above palette. But, for various reasons, artists tend to add a variety of other colors to their palette. One reason is that tube colors are, by and large, always brighter than mixed colors. Other reasons have to do with the tinting strength or the undertone of certain tube colors. Or, maybe just because a certain tube color looks particular good to the artist and can not easily be mixed.

Here are a number of tube colors I like to work with beyond the ones already mentioned:

* Burnt Sienna – Burnt Sienna is a warm, orange-red, and transparent brown. This brown is a medium-to-fast drier and has a medium tinting strength. Mixed with Lemon Yellow it yields a clean orange-brown.

* Cerulean Blue – Cerulean Blue is a cool, green leaning, and opaque blue. This blue is a medium-to-fast drier and has a medium-to-low tinting strength. Mixed with Lemon Yellow it yields a spring green.

* Cadmium Orange – Cadmium Orange is a warm, red or yellow leaning, and opaque orange. This orange is a slow drier and has a high tinting strength. Mixed with Permanent Rose it yields a sharp hot orange.

* Cadmium Yellow Light – Cadmium Yellow Light is a warm/cool, somewhat green leaning, and opaque yellow. This yellow is a medium-to-slow drier and has a high tinting strength. Mixed with Cadmium Red Light it yields a bright orange.

* Cadmium Red Light – Cadmium Red Light is a warm, orange leaning, and opaque red. This red is a slow drier and has a high tinting strength. Mixed with Cadmium Yellow Light it yields a bright orange.

* Yellow Ochre – Yellow Ochre is a warm, brown leaning, and opaque yellow. This yellow is a medium-to-fast drier and has a medium tinting strength. Mixed with Cadmium Yellow it yields a glowing sandy color.

* Burnt Umber – Burnt Umber is a warm, red leaning, and fairly transparent brown. This brown is a fast drier and has a medium-to-high tinting strength. Mixed with Cerulean Blue it yields a series of colors from green-gray to green-brown.

* Viridian – Viridian is a cool, blue leaning, and transparent green. This green is a medium drier and has a medium tinting strength. Mixed with Burnt Sienna it yields a nice fall green.

* Cobalt Blue – Cobalt Blue is a cool, violet leaning, and semi-transparent blue. This blue is a fast drier and has a low-to-medium tinting strength. Mixed with Permanent Rose it yields a glowing violet.

There are few more colors I use occasionally, such as Dioxazine Purple, Permanent Sap Green, Raw Sienna, and Raw Umber. But the palette here described has more than enough colors in it to paint just about anything as long as you also use mixtures of these colors.

Colour Mixing Tips for Oil and Acrylic Painters



Colour mixing is one of the most difficult aspects of learning how to paint using acrylic or oils. It is very easy to create muddy or lifeless colours which deaden a painting. The following colour mixing tips will help you create very interesting colour mixes both bold and subtle.

Mixing Flesh Colours

The problem for the artist with painting flesh colours is that the shadows often look dirty and not too convincing. Restricting ourselves to just white flesh in this instance, because dark flesh is a completely different range of colours, here are some ideas. The colours I use are: titanium white, yellow ochre, light red, Indian red (now called Red Oxide), alizarin crimson, cadmium red, cadmium yellow light and cobalt blue.

Generally speaking I mix a standard flesh tint in the following proportions: 5 parts white, 1 part yellow, half a part of red; the mixtures are approximate. A cool flesh tone I would use Titanium white, yellow ochre and Indian red, a warm flesh tint Titanium White, Cadmium Yellow Light and Light Red. Variations on this theme could be to replace Indian red with alizarin Crimson in a cool tint and light red with cadmium red for a warm tint. The highlights can be a mixture of alizarin crimson and titanium white for cool areas and cadmium red and titanium white for warm areas.

Shadows, if they are very deep, could be a mixture of Indian red and Cobalt blue, this creates a cool mauve colour which is ideal.

Don’t be afraid to use blues, purples and mauves in shaded areas. As a very simple rule the areas of the face that are in shadow or further away paint in cool tones, the areas closer to you in warm tones. Obviously this will vary depending on light, angles etc. Lines on the face can be defined with Indian Red but this may well need toning down depending on the general colour scheme chosen.

Try to avoid mixing flesh colours with blue because they will be come muddy very quickly. Also avoid the earthy brown colours (burnt umber for example) as they too become muddy when mixed with flesh tints.

How to mix Greys

Mixing greys to provide the artist with the subtlety required in oil/acrylic painting cannot be achieved by simply mixing black and white together. Try this for an idea. Take the three primary colours; Red, Yellow and Blue – which particular red, yellow etc will affect the outcome so experiment – and mix them together. Use small amounts of paint and try to mix equal amounts. You will end up with a sludgy colour; now add a little white and bingo a grey appears. If you want a cool grey add a little more blue, for a warm grey a little more red and so on.

An endless range of ‘greys’ can be achieved, for example, using alizarin crimson as the red, will give a different grey from using vermillion. If you want a more sophisticated approach try to find out whether the colour you are using is a cool tone or a warm tone, then just mix the cool tones or the warm tones. For example, Permanent Rose is a cool red – slightly bluish, mixing it with ultramarine and a cool yellow like lemon yellow will give less sludgy grey.

A really good exercise in colour mixing would be to produce a whole painting just using greys, cool greys in the background, warm greys in the foreground and a huge range of tones of grey in between would be a good starting point.

General Colour Mixing Tips

The following are simply suggestions you may wish to consider:

If you need a black this is not just flat like Mars Black try mixing together Ultramarine or Phthalo Blue with Burnt Umber. This gives a ‘black’, which can be used in the background – more blue than brown to give a cool black – or in the foreground, more brown than blue to create a warm black. Remember, that black used from a tube in both the foreground of a painting and the background will have a flattening effect. This idea can be used for oil/acrylic painting as well as watercolour.

Have you ever been stuck trying to work out which colour to use in the background of a painting. One idea that can sometimes work well is to choose a complementary colour to the predominant colour of the foreground. Complementary colours are opposite each other on the colour wheel. So red is the complementary of green, blue of orange and yellow of purple.

It is very easy to mix muddy secondary colours; orange, green and purple if you mix together the wrong reds, blues and yellows. Colours can have what is called an undertone, for example French Ultramarine has a red undertone and Permanent Rose has a Blue undertone. When these are mixed together they produce a pure purple. Prussian Blue has a green undertone therefore would create a muddy purple when mixed with Permanent Red. The following colours can produce clean secondary colours if you mix the right combinations, experiment but remember they are not the only ones,:

Oil Colours: Cadmium Yellow Hue, Cadmium Red Hue, French Ultramarine, Phthalo Blue, Permanent Rose, Cadmium Lemon Hue Acrylic Colours: Cadmium Yellow Hue, Vermilion Hue, French Ultramarine, Winsor Blue, Permanent Rose, Cadmium Lemon Hue Watercolours: Winsor Yellow, Cadmium Red, French Ultramarine, Winsor Blue, Permanent Rose, Lemon Yellow

If you find a colour is too strong or intense, for example, red, you can tone it down a little by mixing a very small amount of its complementary colour, in this case green. All colours can be reduced in intensity by mixing with their complementaries.